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TEXAS MONTHLY Live: Best Small Town Cafes
On December 8, I traveled to Stephenville (which is a little southwest of Fort Worth) to present our Small-Town Cafes placard to Jake & Dorothy's Cafe. At 60 years, the cafe is one of the oldest in Texas. Even more remarkable, it is still in the hands of the founding family. The owner is Kerry Roach, the daughter of Jake and Dorothy Roach, who opened the present location for business on June 12, 1948. Kerry had spread the word to her regular customers, who assembled in the dining room. There must have been fifty people there for the presentation. At precisely 2:30, Kerry and I stood in front of the pie case and I said a few words, praising J&D's especially for being the most photogenic small-town cafe in the state. Kerry had warned me earlier, "I don't know what to say" and "I may cry." True to her promise, she was pretty much speechless, but she smiled a lot and everybody applauded. Afterward, a long-time employee nicknamed Vee surprised Kerry with a big framed poster featuring the pages from the magazine on Jake & Dorothy's. Everybody applauded again. You could tell how happy they were that a big-city magazine had seen fit to honor their own small-town cafe.